What to choose -

a camp or a lodge?

When heading on a safari in the Masai Mara, the first thing to do is to decide what you expect from the trip.

Most often during safaris, I come across three types of tourists:

1. Those who visit the national park for a couple of days out of curiosity or just to tick it off their list, while the main purpose of their trip was to relax on one of the Indian Ocean beaches — for example, in Zanzibar.
2. Those for whom the safari and African wildlife are the main purpose of the trip. Such tourists usually visit several national parks and reserves, spending a couple of nights in each.
3. Photography enthusiasts, wildlife lovers or professionals studying it, as well as journalists — in short, wildlife fanatics.

The first group includes affluent ladies, families with small children, and those for whom spending a night in a tent could be a torment. I strongly advise such tourists to stay in lodges. These offer restaurant meals with a familiar buffet setup, the area is more or less fenced off from the savanna, and wild animals hardly ever visit the guests. Such lodges usually have Wi‑Fi, a souvenir shop and a swimming pool — in short, everything you’re used to.

But if you’re from group 2 or 3 — or even from group 1, but want to be closer to nature — then it’s better to choose camps with no fences, where wild animals roam freely around the area, and where the sounds and scents of the savanna will fill you with wonder, making those days unforgettable.

Camps, or tent camps, fall into two categories: standard and luxury.
Standard tent camps can be compared to hostels. That is, your tent might not have a toilet, and it might accommodate six or more people. This type of accommodation is usually chosen by budget‑conscious travellers and those who value nature over comfort.
Luxury camps are usually expensive or even very expensive — often more costly than five‑star hotels. However, your tent will resemble a luxurious hotel room: with a beautiful interior, a spacious terrace, and, of course, a shower and toilet.

Staying in tents is completely safe, even though it may seem like you’re sleeping all alone in the middle of a savanna teeming with snakes, lions, hyenas and other dangerous creatures. Local Maasai residents provide security for such tent camps — they patrol the camp area around the clock. If you need to walk from your tent to the restaurant or reception, they’ll escort you. Over all the years the Maasai Mara National Reserve has existed, not a single tourist has been harmed by a wild animal while on the territory of a camp or the park.

Staying in a tent will make you feel like the hero of an adventure film. Believe me, you’ll never forget this holiday! Plus, most camps are located right inside the park, so you’ll save a huge amount of time on transfers. Your safari will start the moment you arrive and end only when you leave the park. In the evenings, each camp lights a campfire and often cooks meat over an open flame. If you bring a guitar along, it’ll be the ultimate romantic experience! And what a sky we have here!

In short, my advice is: stay in camps. It’s complete unity with nature!

If you're unsure, you can combine options – spend the first couple of nights in a tented camp, and then switch to a regular lodge. But believe me, unless you’re a bore or a complainer, you’ll want to return to that tent!

In the Maasai Mara, I usually stay at the following camps: Matira Bush Camp, Enkewa, Malaika, Kimana, and Entem.

If you choose a lodge, the best location is Keekorok 5*, but don’t expect a cozy, homey atmosphere there.

Additionally, it’s good to know that outside the Maasai Mara park, lodges and camps are always cheaper than inside. You’ll save about 20–50%, but you’ll lose around two hours each day on travel. By staying inside the park, you’ll not only save time on commuting but also be able to return to your accommodation during lunchtime when it’s very hot, the animals are asleep or inactive, and the light isn’t good for photos.

Happy travelling!